Lady Musgrave: a top Birthday spot!

 

Thursday: Glenn's birthday...61 and he's finally here at Lady Musgrave.

This is something that he's always dreamed about and talked about. I drew this birthday card while Glenn slept. (no secrets hiding places when living on board). I would call this drawing an impression because nautical detail is lacking....it was too dark to go out on the water in the dinghy to check on reality.

Surprise. It's a card especially for you.

We were wanting to get onto the shore and explore the island of Lady Musgrave. It is the southern most coral cay of the Great Barrier Reef. It is a small island that takes about 45 mins to walk around. "Just look at the colour of the water" we kept saying to each other and anyone else we could find.

"How's the colour of this water!" No one else is listening.

We anchored ST3 about here and motored to the shore. The island is totally coral without any dirt/soil and is able to support vegetation due to the large amount of guano that has been deposited by birds over the millennium. Many species of migratory birds rest or nest here, and turtles come ashore to lay their eggs.

Our anchorage, and the neighbours were few.

The foundations of the island.

Super Sailor destroys World Heritage.

After kicking around bits of bleached coral for a while we headed into the interior of the island. It was a canopy of light green foliage: Pisonia trees and at present it is heavily populated by nesting birds: Noddy terns.

Little Blue Riding Hood.

Nesting Noddys.

After our leg streching on land I paddled my kayak out onto the reef edges within the enclosed waters. I am amazed the any of my photos actually turned out. The sun light plays tricks with exposures and the focus normally lands on the water's surface!

A classic shot taken without getting wet.

Cloisonné ?

Hydrangeas grow here.

Just by paddling and floating aimlessly around We were able to get up close and personal to several large black tip reef sharks chasing schools of colourful fish, white herons, a couple of large shy turtles and some smaller sting rays who didn't stay around for long. Lots of bright fish were dashing in and out. My greatest photographic achievement of the day was finding and snapping a blue star fish. Although this creature didn't move at all while I was there the tidal flow continually conspired to move the me and the kayak away from this spot. I persisted and this is the best out of 23 photo attempts. And it really is this blue.

True blue. All of the action for this photo was above the surface.

The darker side of life in paradise at Lady Musgrave is that we had no communication with the outside world for 4 days. I was delighted but Glenn became frustrated without Facebook or texts from friends and family. "How will I know what's happening". A fellow sailor passed on this tip: clip the Wifi to a halyard and hoist it up the mast. The results were reported by Glenn as being poor and intermittent. He gave up eventually after much cursing. The next morning we set sail for the mainland: Pan Cake Creek, Bustard Head and phone reception.

Is anybody out there. Just nod if you can hear me. Is there anyone at home.

Foot note: by Glenn: I loved my specially created card. Loved it! Hoist up the hotspot Jen.

 

 

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Bundaberg to Lady Musgrave Island.

Late Tuesday afternoon and the anchor winch was finally repaired.! It had been a frustrating week of delays and let downs at Bundaberg. The forecast for Wednesday and the rest of the week looked perfect to sail out and stay at Lady Musgrave Island.

Not our photo, but this is Lady Musgrave.

This is a coral cay, a true tropical paradise. For 30 or more years I've dreamed of the day when I could drop anchor in the aqua lagoon waters of Lady Musgrave Island. The challenges of anchoring in a coral lagoon is that at high tide the reef is covered and the vessel is literately anchored in the middle of the ocean. Lady Musgrave is over 36 nautical miles from any other safe anchorage so knowledge of the forth coming weather is essential. The forecast was promising with a 20 to 25 knot south to south westerly to leave, with winds decreasing through the afternoon with calm conditions promised for the rest of the week.

 

We set sail at about 7am Wednesday and the wind was blowing as per the forecast. I put one reef in the main sail and turned north expecting to arrive at the lagoon around 3pm. Sea Trek III loved the lively downwind run with an average speed of around 7 knots and we all enjoyed the ride. Three other yachts had left Bundaberg that morning as well: Ocean Child with Dennis and Jenni, Tribal and Plum Loco (the latter 2 being catamarans). They left earlier than us and we could make out their sails a mile or two ahead in the morning glare.

The sailing was perfect!

We had one interesting experience and a first for us in our time of sailing. It was around midday when Jen (ever alert and keeping a good and proper lookout) noticed a large container ship on the horizon to our south east. As large as it was, the ship only appeared to be a curious side view of a small thing. No threat to us we thought, but within minutes it's side profile continued to grew bigger and bigger, and at a fixed angle to Sea Trek III. In no time at all this enormous cargo ship was beginning to bare down on us from an acute side angle. We were on a collision course! Evasive action was required fast. (even though under the Collision Regulations engine power gives way to sail.) Just as I began to slow down to alter course I picked up the hand held VHF radio. I wanted to establish that the vessel could actually see us! The radio then crackled to life: "Sailing Vessel, Sailing Vessel, this is ship Celine C, Celine C, do you copy?" I answered in my most official maritime voice "Celine C, Celine C, this is Sailing Vessel Sea Trek III, Sea Trek III: copy" . "Sea Trek III, Sea Trek III, Do you mind if we maintain our course?" I quickly replied "Celine C, we have already begun to slow down to accommodate your course. Sea Trek III: out" As you can see from the picture below he was very close and I wasn't going to argue with a ship of that size!

Care to alter course Sir?

The wind had completely dropped by 1pm and we motor sailed the remaining miles. It was uneventful except the occasional visits from two groups of playful dolphins. We needed to have ST3 moving through the narrow entrance before the sun dropped too low in the sky. Sun glare makes visualising the shallow coral bommies difficult; a real danger when entering a lagoon. This was our first visit to a coral cay and we were both nervous and excited.

Love at first sight.

We arrived at 3pm and were surprised at how narrow and shallow the entrance was. In we charged with ST3. The in-rushing tide swept our speed 'over ground' to 8 knots.

Jen's view after the big rush.

Jen was on the bowsprit pointing and shouting directions about which way to steer. After a couple of close shaves and a bit of excitement we were safely at anchor in the pristine waters by 3.30pm.

We admired the anchor.

 

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Not all smooth sailing. Bundaberg Blues!

A week in Bundaberg: not planned, not expected and not really appreciated.!

I guess that it had to happen. We have experienced dramatic highs in the last few months. Last week end was especially amazing with our unforgettable encounters with the humpback whales at Rooneys Point. During this past week all things nautical have came to a halt. We are in Bundaberg and waiting. For this entire week we have been stuck in the marina waiting for a new anchor winch motor. "We are not going cruising unless this is fixed." I have said.

Outside of the well manicured marina grounds it is flat dry land. It is so flat that Jen thought it may have been an extension of the airport because she noticed it being mowed. But no, it is just neat flat dirt, and it is extensive. Somehow some small biting things managed to attack her low legs on the first evening here and a week later there are still approx. 40 small blisters annoying her.

We took the bus to the town. Neither of us were impressed but for differing reasons. Jen does not like dry country towns that do not offer ice cream shops in convenient and obvious places.

No surf and no waves here.

People who sail come from many walks of life. Being out on the water forms a camaraderie that is lacking on land. While here we've caught up with old and new friends.

Graeme, Sue and their son Jamie of SV Symphony (and CCCA members ) were resting up here on their way to Cairns join the Louisiades Rally that is leaving in a few weeks. We shared their excitement and asked heaps of questions. Next year we will be travelling up that way as well.

During our time at the Woolwich Marina we met Cheryl and Mike of SV Gidgee. Our plans were somehow always out of step with theirs. Despite their whirl wind sail up the coast ahead of us and their recent return flight to Sydney we opened our eyes this morning to see Gidgee on the next finger! Perhaps this is a good omen.

"Up the road" with friends.

There is a certain 'something' about country clubs. The weekly raffle night is irresistible. I don't use poker machines or gamble but I am a total push-overwhen it comes to the boisterous ticket sellers of 'club supported' charities. Tonight's charity was the SES of Bundaberg. I bought 100 tickets...and guess what we are having for breakfast lunch and dinner for the next few days: CHICKEN!

 

Lucky Love Locks wins again.

Jen was not impressed to see the following sign on the clubs toilet door. A feminist at heart she came back from a visit and was furious. She wanted to complain to someone about both the picture and the title. She also tells me that she will not be eating chicken giblets for breakfast. I think that Bundaberg does not suit her.

"This is not funny" says Jen.

We went to the Bundaberg Rum factory. We are a DRY boat now and have given our health a rest. However we did fancy this liqueur because it is coffee and chocolate flavoured. It is hidden away for use on special occasion. Jen wants it as a topping for her ice cream! (We finally have a working freezer now.)

So tasty.

Jen has been bored and wanting to paint some bulkheads (walls) white. I'm not convinced of the need. I like the timber look. A morning bus trip to Bundy produced this decorating wonder. Favourite photos of the trip so far now grace the main timber expanse. The photos are colour coordinated with the cushions she made some months ago. It's a birthday treat for me. The candles are fake and remote controlled. ( Flames are dangerous on yachts, because of the potential build up of gasses). I think that she is clever.

Our saloon.

Monday morning the anchor motor saga continues,TNT how hard is it to loose a package between Brisbane and Bundaberg!!!

 

 

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Whale pulled my chain...

Jen and I are in agreement that Rooney Point is the best anchorage we have been in since leaving Sydney 10 weeks ago. We were lucky with the weather as well, but even so it's certainly a beautiful place.

Jen taking a shot with the sextant @ Rooney Point.

The whales love this place as well. There were so many whales around it was unbelievable. As Jen has mentioned in a previous blog said it was hard to sleep with the continual vocalisations of whales.

One of the many giants passing by.

Following this entry is the video of the whales swimming around and under Sea Trek III. It was an amazing experience and it concludes abruptly with the turbulence created when one of the whales snagged the anchor chain. The whale dragged the boat dislodging the anchor and pulling the snubber line off. It frightened all of us and the whales quickly swam away. We were upset to think that we may have injured the offending whale.

 

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Rooney Point: Paradise found!

By Jen: Saturday afternoon: Rooney Point on the northern edge of Fraser Island is paradise found.

We anchored as the sun was setting. In the stillness of the new night we began to hear the tender songs of the Humpback whale families.

A red sunset from the distant sugar cane field fires.

In these clear waters mothers rest and glide close to the shore with their babies. The moonless night had me spell bound. I sat in the cockpit in the complete darkness. I was terrified and did not know what to expect. With my adrenaline pumping I tried to record the low sustained notes of the tender mothers. (Unfortunately I only managed to record my own heavy breathing by using the wrong phone app.) Glenn grew tired of sitting and waiting and went to bed. I lingered because I knew that a whale was very close. I could feel the boat develop a subtle rocking motion without swell or tide. Suddenly an explosion of breath erupted right beside the ST3. Stale moist air exploded next to me. I smelt the stench of the whale's breath. I couldn't see anything lurched backwards and I think I screamed. I decided that the safest thing to do was to sleep in my life jacket. Glenn reassured me that this wasn't necessary. We didn't sleep well anyway because there were just too many strange whale noises drifting through the hull. Further into the night most of the noises were repeated fin slaps and explosive breaths.

Sunday morning: We were both really tired but elated. We wanted to get ashore.

How can this colour be real?

Just a clever photo by Jen

 

The classic Fraser Island photo.

I found lots of extraordinary things on the beach. I have started a shell collection yet again.

A crab shell with amazing colours.

 

A plywood catamaran complete with galley sink cupboard.

A Turtle shell approx 80cms long.

The skeletal remains of the deceased turtle.

 

Reflected beauty.

We walked to the Bluff and some hours later we saw whales frolicking and heading from Platypus Bay towards our Anchorage. The water was still and clear and we could hear their voices as they swam closer. We were glad to climb on board but had no time to hoist the dinghy.

The next part of this story was actually captured by iPhone video.

ST3 waiting for our return.

 

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Fraser Island: the search for interesting wild life

By Jen: We crossed the Wide Bay Bay without event. Even in the low swell it was unnerving to motor between the breaking waves. It all looked so wrong as we turned Sea Trek III to run parallel to the surf. (We were well informed and knew what to expect).

We planned to travel slowly over the next few days keeping Fraser Island on our starboard side. This channel of water, the Great Sandy Straits twists and winds for many many miles before opening up into Hervey Bay. Garrys Anchorage offered us our first chance to explore and seek out wild life.

Happy campers.

So with high hopes and strong walking shoes we landed the dinghy on a soft sandy beach and headed into the world famous Fraser Island National Park: the worlds largest sand island. We should have taken the greeting sign as an omen: it was not at all what we expected.

A "Croc Warning"!!!! ( not your bad taste in shoes Bruce).

We decided to charge forward and definitely remain vigilant at the waters edge for floating " logs". Also on our mind was the reported male dingo sighting. We were uncertain about any of other wild life, but the National Park signage clearly stated that visitors were not to befriend any animals. We were hopeful of a thrill or two and perhaps some more poorly focused pictures for the blog.

Intriguing but not thrilling.

Unidentified plant branch.

We had only just started along the bush road track when we were engulfed in tiny biting sand flies. These stinging distractions quickly drove us mad. They bit into our arms, legs, hands, ears, neck and scarcely haired areas (Glenn's head). We made a hasty retreat to the shore line while glancing at a goana racing up a tree trunk. A nice walk on the sandy shore line would have to do. Nothing exciting here , but I saw some interesting crab hole patterns in the sand. I was certain that it spelt out a message.

DNA or a word?

Feeling a little deflated by the over-abundance of 'unexpected' wild life we decided to return to the mother ship. The experience had been a little ordinary and intensely itchy. But by now the water had retreated: the shoreline had move away. We needed get the dinghy floating again. Soft "good holding sand" should be no problem, that's why we anchored here. And so we began to drag and push the American styled keeled dinghy. (The firm keel being a tremendous feature for the inflatable dinghy). But the sand had turned to mud, and it wouldn't drag. I was sucked in up to my thighs! I could barely stay upright from laughing. And just how would I get our clothes clean again? A fit of giggles over took me. I wished that I had lost some weight so that I didn't sink so much. I felt myself slipping into the voids below. Help!

Roll up your shorts, young man.

Glenn took over the entire procedure, using strong shoulders to break the muddy suction. Our brand-new-just-met friends Chris and Maggie from Allons-Y looked on in bemusement. I refused their kind offer of help on behalf of Glenn who was too busy to answer.

After much straining...

In the end Glenn was covered in mud and then couldn't get back into the dinghy. The mud had a suction grip on his legs. He had nothing solid under foot to push against. It took one huge lunge with his head forward and low to provide enough momentum to propel himself back in. He hit the solid flat floor. (This is another outstanding feature of the Caribe dinghy; thanks Wazza and Carol).

Action Man

And

30 knots against tide, some weren't so lucky.

Footnote by Glenn:

Is Gary's anchorage the worlds most dangerous anchorage? Quicksand, flesh eating crocodiles, goannas bigger than Komodo Dragons, baby stealing dingos and sand flies bigger than March flies! Yes I think so! It did come highly recommended to me by a certain Vice Commodore of a certain Coastal Cruising Club who shall remain nameless. Bruce are you trying to get rid of me?

 

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