The original Savage Oceanic 42' yacht.

A yacht owner takes special pride in their choice of boat. (even more so than with car selection). Many yachties believe that the heyday of yacht building and design was several decades ago. Infact that quality of yacht structure, layup technique and hull strength can not readily be reproduced today due to the extreme cost of materials, labour etc. Many of the best Australian built yachts are over 30 years old now (or more) and still sailing on.

Just by chance we shared the anchorage with the very first Jack Savage Oceanic 42/46 Kinta III. Her present owner Dave has been sailing her for the past 20 years.

I couldn't wait to be asked aboard. Kinta III looks beautiful, shiny white and is so stylish inside. This yacht is a true reflection of the skills and love that Dave has lavished upon her. To put it simply this 1977 yacht is a timeless classic and a real restoration piece.

A 1977 beauty.

Not only did we enjoy admiring Kinta III but Dave turned out to be a collector of some hard-to-find information about Oceanic's history. He told us that Sea Trek III was resprayed in 2005 at Brisbane. He also explained why green was under the present white top coat. Amazingly he had an advert for ST3 when she was for sale and named Harita.! Wow I was impressed. Between us we have page 1 and 2 of the 'blue prints' and Dave has promised to scan copies of review articles from old sailing magazines. We are looking forward to having him as a guest aboard. He solo sails and it was just great to meet such a knowledgable and discerning fellow cruiser.

Advert for Harita: probably 15 years ago.

Referring back to a previous blog I think that in meeting Dave we have found some buried treasure. Anyway there is nothing like another yacht of the same design in the same anchorage to bring out the competitiveness in an owner. I couldn't believe my eyes when I found Glenn over the side giving ST3 a good scrub along the water line. Kinta III certainly doesn't have any growth on her bottom.

The yoga king busy cleaning.

Glenn says, yea right! Everyone knows how much I love YOGA!!!!!

 

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Hunter Island: any treasure here?

By Jen at Hunter Island: the Duke Islands group.

We were both getting a bit "stir-crazy" onboard of Sea Trek III and perhaps this was because of boredom. We were not sailing (again) because the weather had conspired to keep us at Hunter Island for four nights. No phone access, internet or outside news and no progress south.

We were reading lots of books. Glenn thought that the Duke Islands were a bit "Scottish" because of the sea, steep hills and farm connection. His reading of Treasure Island, and Kidnapped by Robert Louis Stephenson had cunjoured up images of boyhood games involving shipwrecks and buried treasures. Perhaps we would find treasure while we were here? I agreed with him that we should keep looking for our "travel treasures" as we trudged up different peaks each day to catch the view at the top.

Treasure Island?

I enjoy beach combing, and am always on the lookout for anything unusual. Without many personal possessions on board, found objects become my treasures. I felt that I had really "struck it lucky" when I found a beautiful but crumbling Nautilaus shell. (I had regretted leaving a complete specimen behind on the Thomas Islands recently) This was wonderful to photograph because of its shapes and pearl-o-essence .

A treasure for Jen: Glenn uncertain.

From the top of the barren ridges and headlands we watched large ancient turtles ride the currents through the narrow passage of aqua waters between Marble and Hunter Islands. I could see them pop up their heads but organizing the camera meant that I was repeatedly too slow for a successful photo. Weirdly Glenn had become a Turtle attracting devise: he could spot them as they surfaced, and then they would dive below when I appeared. I just wanted a photo of one of these gentle guys. I have been trying for months. In frustration Glenn took the camera and guess what: within seconds a face appeared and Bingo: a photo! Another treasure for me.

To tell the truth I was a bit peeved that Glenn was always spotting turtles before me. However he doesn't understand animals as much as I do, and can be confused by their movements. "What's happening over here?" he called out at 6 am. We were raising the anchor. There was a lot of splashing of flippers nearby. "I think a big turtle might be scratching", he concluded. I looked over towards the shore and smiled to myself. "No not scratching Glenn, mating!". "Oh, really?" he replied. He did seem a perplexed, as if he was wondering why they would bother.

Turtles mating, not scratching.

Glenn likes to cook and he said that these Donuts would be a real treasure. Yummy: yes, gone by the evening: yes. But I was getting tired of this theme....the blog needed to be written.

 

Totally delicious: Gertie would be proud.

By now I felt a little mischievous. I was not going to be out done by "Glenn the Turtle Whisperer" and marvelous cook. He was just getting a bit too big for his own hat. He had suggested the theme for this blog: "Treasure Island" but could get no further with the creative writing. Hmmm I thought. And so I presented him with this Pirate Bootie.

Valuable hair.

And that brings me to the unexpected thread that readers have picked up on: The back of Glenn's head. Looking back through the blog since leaving Sydney I must agree that it is a frequent photographic subject. And so as not to hold you in suspense any longer, here it is:

 

Hope to be more south soon.

 

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Shark attack survivor shares her story.

As travellers and yachties we have the benefit of an outsiders perspective as far as resorts are concerned. We can dip in and out of a place without feeling bound to get "the most out of our tourist dollar".

A pool of my own: Jen

We have decided to spend a few more days here at Palm Bay Resort on Long Island. It's 5 star environment was on offer to us at $50 a night by mooring Sea Trek III in the lagoon out front. I had my very own pool and spa for an entire day! The comfy lounges and stunning views had cast a strange soothing effect upon us. It is all so very tranquil. By talking to the staff we became aware that a new concept was emerging. It is a unique BYO five star Tropical Island Resort For Rent. We were invited to bring some ideas ashore for a BBQ and meet with the owner, who had flow up from Melbourne.

The secret Surprise Chef is none other than....

Peppers walked away from Palm Bay Long Island Resort a few years ago. The resort reopened mid July 2013. New ideas and a shift in focus were a large part of the evening discussion. The owner echoed our views that it will be the uniqueness of the place that will set it apart.

We made ourselves right at home.

But the evening discussion took on a very different thread as another guest, Paddy 63 year old woman told of the horrific shark attack that disfigured her just three years ago.

She had been swimming with her husband and other snorkellers in a deep channel at Dent island. It was an area not usually visited by tourist vessels. It was day three of a five day stay in another resort. She was grabbed by a Bull Shark who bit into her lower torso and upper legs and latched firmly onto her buttocks. It started to shake her. While still on the surface she turned to see teeth and blood. She was already fighting back by punching it on the snout. She couldn't see its eyes but she just kept thumping. She had no pain but she was dragged under water and fighting for her life. She kept fighting and thought of her children and grandkids. She felt very determined not to let the beast beat her.

It let go of her but she had large gaping wounds. She received good first aid when back in the dinghy and a well coordinated transfer to emergency surgery. Only when she reached hospital did she begin to experience incredible pain. Over the next couple of years she has required skin grafts and reconstructive operations. All of this information is out in the media and available on the web.

Glenn and I both had tears in our eyes as she spoke on a more personal level. She was advised to talk to others about her experience. This approach would help her heal emotionally. She said that she doesn't experience nightmares or flash backs; that being able to choose not to go in the water has given her a sense of control. She has revisited the area and is in contact with other shark victims. Her girlfriend even sat with her to watch JAWS, a movie that she didn't find very scary! (Her friend was terrified.) Specialists have spoken about the fight, fright or flight instinct. Only about 10% of people will fight and that is not a predictable trait prior to an event.

I also listen to Chris, Paddy's husband. He is an outgoing sort of person. He was obviously deeply involved in his wife's experience, trauma and recovery. We passed by them out walking on the rainforest track. Paddy was a little behind Chris on the upward slopes. Although Glenn and I observed that she had a slight mobility problem, we would never have realised the severity of her physical injuries.

Paddy joked that the shark attack was one way to loose a big bum. When she said that she can now sit down normally I realised that buttocks are not accessory organs, or attractive lumps. We all sit so much in modern life. Our spines are protected from abrupt jarring. Our leg muscles attach for balance and walking. And they keep our undies up.

What an amazing woman. She's back into her life again enjoying many things. The shark attack is just one facet of her life story. Really made us think about our own priorities in life. Each day brings it's own unique experiences. Life can never be taken for granted.

But wait....Glenn's dreams of fame and fortune have appeared. A Japanese Film Crew have just arrived for a 24 hour stay at Palm Bay. Oh for Glenn to stay or go further south today???? Will they be needing a "Real Australian Funny Guy" (musician, chef and all round idiot) as part of their documentary about this resort.???

Sand between their toes.

Looking for "Real Aussie Funny Guy".

It really is time for us to go. The winds and weather are favourable. We know the way through the reef now: straight line and full blast on the engine.

Can you see the narrow track through the reef?

Moving on, moving south....

 

 

 

 

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Ordinary things become exciting!

Rain, an ordinary thing...

If you know that rain is coming and you are in your usual routine, it tends not to be very interesting. If you haven't seen rain for months then it's a novel event. If you are out in a boat on the water, rain is inconvenient and perhaps a bit scary. But if you are sailing in the tropics and haven't seen rain for months and the water has been glowing a fabulous turquoise colour continuously, then rain and storms are very exciting.

Glenn was spellbound. He could smell the fresh dampness rolling into Nara Inlet. Clouds were visible a long way off to the south. He had consulted all of the standard weather sites, and also a new one to us: "Higgins: Storm Chaser". The dinghy was raised on the davits and secured, kayak and paddle board lashed to the deck, hatches closed and locked. And then we waited together in the cockpit. I had my camera ready. Glenn eyes were darting everywhere. Was that the low growl of thunder? What about lightning and the electrics onboard? Charter yachts began streaming into the anchorage, a safe haven in the southerly conditions. The sheet of grey rain moved towards us.

First of the season.

And then it was gone. I actually don't remember the rain, even though it did make things wet. The sun changed the sky, and everything turned sunset pink.

Did I miss something?

Make and model...generally an ordinary thing..

Now if you are in your usual routine and you have a new car, a weird thing might happen. You start to notice the same model as yours a lot more on the roads, or perhaps the same colour of your car everywhere. You may even get excited and honk your horn as you pass a driver who shares your own good taste. Yachties suffer from this to the extreme.

We have been looking out for Sea Trek III's sisters, Jack Savage designed Oceanic 46' yachts. We hadn't seen any, despite the 1,000s of yachts around us over the past months. They are Australia built, and we expected to find many up this way. We have identified Compass 28s, and South Coast 36s along our way. (our previous yachts designs).

While sitting in the shade on our back deck exchanging sailing dreams with the crew of Sagittae our eyes all fell upon a passing yacht. I read the ship's name and without hesitation began frantically waving some colourful straps in the air. It was Stylopora; the most famous of the Oceanic 46 yachts. She is a circumnavigator and the subject of the book " Here Be Dragons".

Apparently the new owners Di and Geoff are very used to strangers wanting to contact them as they sail past. They politely obliged and turned towards us. We toured each other's yachts, admiring and comparing features. Great excitement as we babbled about our story of how and when we found ST3., previously named Harita. Di was able to give us the names of three other Oceanic 42s and a 46.

A legend.

What Di and Geoff didn't know was that we had long been aware of the wonderful sailing qualities of the Oceanic 46' prior to our purchase of Sea Trek III. We have, over the years, read many of the articles by Don Gilchrist in "Cruising Helmsman" magazine about his travels in Stylopora. We knew that this was 'our' kind of yacht. I felt really privilege to have had the chance to spend time aboard. And we were able to look at a copy of the book "Here Be Dragons". (Thank you Finn).

Very lucky yachties: Di and Geoff

So what do new yachtie friends talk about: Plans and dreams and the best anchorages amongst other things. Highly valued by us all are the personal recommendations and mud maps of more remote areas. Swain Reef was the buzz with us.

Di animated about the Swains.

A mud map: highly prized.

We think that it was a most marvelous day...ordinary things that are special to us.

Thankyou for the feedback from 'anonymous' who suggested that we comment on what we thought of the anchorages visited. Glenn will undertake this over the next few weeks. We'll try to include this is future posts.

 

 

 

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The Woolwich reunion. Airlie Beach is real tourism.

When we stayed in Sydney prior to our June escape north this year, we called Woolwich marina our home. During this time our neighbours for several months were the crew of Gidgee, Cheryl and Mike. They are unable to sail for extended periods due to family commitments . This past weekend was their wedding anniversary. Imagine our surprise when we motored into Macona Inlet to find them on the yacht just infront of us, waving frantically.

Sagittae is no ordinary yacht. Her crew Rob and Syl built her over a number of years. Her design is a Radford 55 ' , and her finish is superb. From our berth at Woolwich we could see Sagittae in the final stages of completion. Sagittae has been 'nearly meeting up' with us many times in recent months

A merry evening of sailing tales : ("Whale tales" : they grow bigger with each telling).

Cheryl spots us.

Mike looks stunned, clutching a support to stay upright.

Crazy things happen. The same day as the Woolwich connections anchored near us, we sailed past Southern Cloud. This mega yacht was moored at the historic Woolwich Dock, is just around the corner from where we were. In the evenings we would walk around to see Wild Oates 11 (Sydney to Hobart fame) on the hard stand. Southern Cloud was being refurbished at the same time and we watched the progress by peering into her lighted interior.

Can you see the crew member up front?

Chatter yachts gather together at night.

 

The channel markers are a sailors friend. This starboard marker is the perfect spot for this as yet unidentified bird's nest. ( Burnie can you help?) Being high above the water it has a good view of fish below.

I love my new camera: not fancy but gives quality pictures.

I think that we have already mentioned the tidal ranges in the Queensland waters. We are not sure if this charter yacht had navigational difficulties, or just miscalculated. Much later in the day she righted herself and they crew sailed her away. It doesn't appear to have sustained any damage, so we presume the tide ran out and left them 'high and dry'.

How embarrassing. No harm done.

On to Airlie Beach, on the mainland.

Airlie beach is a back-packers paradise, and tourist heaven. There are a series of artificial lagoons beside the beaches. From November onwards no one swims in the ocean unprotected because of the toxic stingers.

Water fun: sticky weather.

Glenn tests the safety of the wadding pool.

 

The next two photos are for nostalgic reasons: I associate cookaburras with my Nana. she was a nurturer of birds. They seem to enjoy life in the parks around here. (For my sisters and cousin in England.)

"Happy Jack"

We are staying at the Abell Point Marina. It has a new owner with big plans. The staff are very friendly and relaxed. The mega yachts are on other pontoons. People are casual around here. The winter weather is non existent. It's all loose shirts and floppy shoes. And there is obvious examples of extreme wealth. Rather than bore you with multiple photos of huge expensive yachts, I thought that the glimpse of this Buizen's hull would tell the story. The mirror reflection of the hull is just a taste of the quality on board.

Mirror finish.

Jen impressed. Glenn off to polish Sea Trek III.

The club beside the marina was rocking with a pirate theme on Sunday afternoon.

"Where's me wooden leg, Jack Sparrow?"

Finally hot chips for Glenn, .....the fish has yet to be found. We had a cool afternoon at the Whitsunday Sailing club. It is a low keyed place where we found genuine international Ukulele talent. This is Manitoba Hal, a Canadian who plays complex blues on his double Uke. Check him out on YouTube. Talented with a capital T.

A rare find: someone who plays a double Uke.

We are hoping that the predicted southerly winds, most favourable for visiting Blue Pearl Bay and Butterfly Bay eventuate by next week end. Then we will follow many other yachties and head south for the summer season. .....and employment.

Off to the shops by bus to reprovision for the coming weeks: bulk buys of essentials. We hope to avoid marinas on our return trip. I guess it all depends on required repairs.

 

 

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Note to Jen.

Jen, you make me laugh. As a matter of fact our lives are filled with laughter more times than not. I always smile a little to myself when I hear you tell other cruisers that you are not really an experienced sailor. I beg to differ, and I would like to remind you of some of your achievements. I have verbalised them to you to no avail, so perhaps if I write them down, you and others will realize how experienced you really are.........

Our first boat Anembo was a Compass 28. It was a small but sturdy little yacht. You helped me sail it between Jervis Bay, Ulladulla and Batemans Bay many times. You always felt a little sick but you were there to help and give a hand any time you were needed. You must remember that the south coast of NSW is the Tasmen Sea. Ask any of our sailing friends who have circumnavigated, or are in the process of circumnavigating and they will all agree that it's the worst bit of coastline they have encounted.

Crazy Lady, our next boat was a South Coast 36. We found her in sad decline when we purchased her. We both rebuilt her from the bones up. You were always there with encouragement and suggestions, and never afraid to get your hands dirty doing a project. Crazy was in such good condition when we eventually sold her. She achieved the highest price of any South Coast 36 at that time, and all of course with your help. Meanwhile you managed to get our four kids through matriculation, no mean feat!!

I also forgot to mention at the same time that you also attained your Coxans Certificate at Ulladulla Tafe. You came first in the navigation course, in a class full of men including yours truly.

We both sailed Crazy Lady up and down the NSW Coast but your greatest achievement was sailing Her across Bass Strait. Remember how sick I got. You nearly sailed halfway across solo while i was in a "coma" down below. I have copied the essay you wrote after that adventure to remind you of your courage and fortitude.

A Country Girl at Heart.

"I was staring through the lifelines at the water rushing past the side of Crazy on our way towards Eden. I had became aware that the ocean was undergoing a definite change in character. Was it was becoming more viscous?

Previously I had noticed that the watery -play - grounds of some of the pristine areas that we had visited further north were light, splashy, enticing, happy and almost playful. A holiday mood. A frolic. No real fear of being "lost" and "out of sight" if someone should fall in.

The waters nearer Eden (Twofold Bay) looked more serious, thicker and official.

I thought about the bloody slaughter of whales and the fragile men perched in their open timber vessels; of the dead. I felt sad, and vaguely worried. We had brought the grey skies with us. "It's just some rain" I thought, knowing that supplying and refueling of the yacht would now be much more awkward. But even at this anchorage in this still area, the clear waters were a darker turquoise than I expected. A "wolve in sheep's clothing" as if trying to imitate the fancy colour of a memory that was once known and now corrupted by time.

If I knew the earth to be flat, this water felt like the edge of the known world.

The changes became more significant as Gabo Island finally passed and land moved away. I could now see exactly why these waves troubled me.They were short and abrupt, crisp navy in colour with visible intense detail. They were without contamination of light or debris.They were the guards of the seas ahead. They were a military force and we were in their zone.I could define the border as we sailed through the check point.These seas meant business.No games, no laughter, no frivolity, and no good times.The white caps on their crests were clean cut and vivid, and did not integrate with the blue below.

I watched the land slip away and was astonished to note the ordinariness of the trees and cliffs. It had the appearance of a poorly worked landscape, a lazy artist who had smudged olive green and rust brown into the background by using a careless blending of the thumb.

I lay down in the lee-berth inside the warm cabin. I stared at the ceiling. It pulsated for a second or so. Was this a panic attack?. I calmed my mind. We were about to sail over a very angry strait of ocean that had claimed thousands of lives. Out of the sight of land.

The next time on deck the ocean surface looked restless, an energy was being held firmly in place by a heavy handed ruler. No wave was individual but all were seething with a bad temper. The depth of this smoldering sea extended thousands of metres below our boat. I found a childlike comfort in focusing my vision on the rectangular frame of the lifelines, but not beyond.

The landing of the fog around Crazy Lady came as a comfort. Bland weak wet grey mist everywhere. I could now easily deny the existence of all the outer watery unknowns. I was happy to be in this dangerous state of total denial, a good but bizarre place to live.

The calm waters of the fog looked thick, limp and oily. They irritated me. They seemed so fake. I knew they wouldn't last. They meant something else was on the way. The fog lifted and the bland disappeared. I was bashed all night long on the nose of Crazy. A southerly that was not forecast had intruded into my night watch and as helmsman I was on trial. This was not a time to call for Glenn's help. I needed to prove myself worthy enough to commit this trespass. Determination, and protectiveness of my crew just kept me at the wheel.

I came on deck in the daylight. The water's surface was now firm and alive, fit and active and very muscular. There were no longer any mindless threats by waves out of sheer spite. Flinders Island had been sighted. A friendly coast guard had called us by name. We were in the substantial Tasmania waters, strong in body and robust.

I'm beginning to relax a little now. In writing this I'm trying to make some sense of all of these new raw sensations. It's been a bit hard for a country girl at heart."

End.

You have just helped me sail ST3 from Sydney to the Whitsunday Islands, and you are an integral part of the team. I couldn't have done it without you!!!!!

So Sydney to Hobart, Sydney to Whitsundays. "Not experienced"!! Jen, sorry but I don't believe you. If others hear Jen say it, please remind her of what she has achieved.

And the next time I hear you say that sort of thing please don't mind if I strangle you.

Glenn.

 

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More Jams than the Cottee's factory, Mackay..

Cruising-sailing isn't all deserted tropical beaches, swaying palms and beautiful sunsets.

Unexpected moon rise.

There are always maintenance jobs to keep the yacht "ship shape". The marine environment is harsh and salt crystals eventually abrade many surfaces. Our stay at Mackay marina was a convenient time to attend to the 100 hour engine service, and to replace a slightly worn heat exchanger end cap. We quickly realised that any extra tools, equipment or food was best carried aboard at high tide. The 5 metre tidal range made for slippery and steeply angled ramps.

A good ski slope.(more like Mt Everest)

Mackay turned out to be another great place to catch up with friends, old and new. A previous work mate from 15 years ago, Dennis "Gilligan" now lives in Cairns, and just happened to arrive in Mackay on the same day as we did. He generously took us out to dinner. We look forward to catching up with him and Fiona at Airlie Beach in a week or so. We FINALLY caught up with Bruce and Sue from "Chilli Heat". (We had hoped to sail with them in the Whitsundays by the fourth week of August). Also in port were Jenny and Denis from Ocean Child as well as Hans and Bernise from Brahminy. What this all means is a concentration of incredible musical talent. We had 5 uke's, 2 guitars, various keys of harmonicas and a Dobro Comb. Musical mayhem at various locations.

Bruce and Hans bash it out!

Denis surprises everyone, with Bruce's encouragement.

Sue teasing the locals with aromas.

We ended up having two great nights of music. The first night aboard Sea Trek III, and the next at an impromptu BBQ. The music and the wine flowed freely. I bet the residents of the high rise near the BBQ area were very impressed. It was all a bit sad in the end because everyone was heading on their separate ways. We are not sure when we will catch up again.

Goodbye all.

By the time this blog is posted we will be in the Whitsunday Islands.

 

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